The Lady Gregory and Yeats Heritage Trail

BYâ€Ë†Tony Galvin AT LAST: an alternative to the mandatory tour of Connemara â€â€ whatever the weather â€â€ when visitors arrive. The newly launched Lady Gregory and Yeats Heritage Trail takes in many of the sights of South Galway, with the focus on the areaâ€â„¢s great literary, artistic and cultural legacy as well as the heritage of the trailâ€â„¢s eight main locations. This heritage initiative was set up to show that this area has much to offer the visitor and to facilitate access for those who wish to visit sites associated with Yeats, Lady Gregory and the Irish Literary Revival. The easy-to-follow map shows there are alternatives for the discerning visitor to the Cliffs of Moher and Connemara, and the project could well serve as a template for many other locations that wish to highlight their particular attractions for visitors, and for heritage tourists in particular. I set out to follow the trail one recent fine morning and not only did I have a most enjoyable day, thanks to the trail taking the organisational heavy lifting out of the equation all I had to do was stick to the route, arrive and soak up the sights. As I was coming from Tuam, my first stop was St Brendanâ€â„¢s Cathedral in Loughrea, to see Harry Clarkeâ€â„¢s truly magnificent stained glass windows. You donâ€â„¢t have to be a fan of ecclesiastical architecture or even of stained glass to appreciate that Clarkeâ€â„¢s work is a national treasure, which deserves a wider audience. Then it was off down the Gort road to the walled garden at Woodville House. This gem came as a welcome surprise, as Iâ€â„¢d never before been down this particular road, never mind being aware of Woodvilleâ€â„¢s existence. Trojan work has been carried out to restore the Victorian walled garden to its former splendour, and the work continues. This is a must-see for gardeners. The head gardener is as informative as she is welcoming and tours can be arranged. While there I met Margarita Donohue of Woodville, who came up with the initial idea for the trail, and Cllr Bridie Willers, a passionate advocate of local initiatives such as this. Over tea in the old stable block, now converted into a museum and tea-rooms, they outlined the thinking behind the Lady Gregory and Yeats Heritage Trail. Realising that much of the heritage of the area was being presented in a piecemeal fashion, they got together to create a circuit that would encompass much of what this beautiful, but often overlooked, area of South Galway has to offer. The history of Woodville and its former residents, along with that of the nearby Roxborough estate, could serve as a primer for 19th and early 20th century land agitation and the great social changes wrought over this period. Indeed, part of the trail incorporates the restored gates at Roxborough, where Lady Gregory was born, with a fine information stand explaining the history of the house, long gone, and its importance. After a quick stop there, Margarita and Bridie guided me to Killinane Graveyard where many members of the Gregory family are buried. This is also being enhanced as part of the initiative and will prove an interesting diversion for those following the literary trail. The beautiful vistas of the surrounding countryside must be seen to be appreciated. Next it was off to Thoor Ballylee, a restored tower house that was once the home of WB Yeats. There is a small heritage centre here and in the past Iâ€â„¢ve explored the castle, but enquiries should be made for up-to-date information on visits. That said, itâ€â„¢s a delightful place for a picnic by the river and a must for all true Yeats fans. From here it is just a short spin to the Kiltartan Museum, which houses interesting memorabilia from the Gregory and Yeats era. Again, enquiries should be made regarding opening times. Next stop is Coole Park, a familiar location for many of us, but no matter how many times I visit Iâ€â„¢m still awed by its beauty and tranquillity. Every visit presents something new: this time I managed to get lost while trying to locate the spot on the lakeshore where Yeats saw the 59 swans that most of us learned about in school: The trees are in their autumn beauty, The woodland paths are dry, Under the October twilight the water Mirrors a still sky; Upon the brimming water among the stones Are nine-and-fifty swans Coole is another ideal location for a picnic, but the tea-rooms there serve a wide variety of food. On the day I visited I enjoyed my lunch outside in what was part of the old stable block and farm buildings. Next door there is an interpretive centre where maps and information can be obtained. Coole, of course, was the home of Lady Gregory and central to the Irish Literary Revival. My final stop was on the other side of Gort, to visit Kilmacduagh, one of the most extensive and impressive monastic sites in the country, which also boasts Irelandâ€â„¢s tallest round tower. This site, set in verdant countryside with the Burren as a backdrop, has up to now been inexcusably absent from promotions of established tourist locations, but the launch of this new heritage trail will hopefully bring it the wider attention it deserves. The Lady Gregory and Yeats Heritage Trail is a shining example of a community co-operating to highlight the heritage of parts of our county â€â€ and country â€â€ that are sometimes a little neglected by tourism officialdom. Writing about it can only provide a sketch of whatâ€â„¢s on offer: the only way to appreciate it fully is to get the excellent map available and go and experience the sites for yourself. Itâ€â„¢s a great experience for locals and visitors alike. For more information check: www.ladygregoryyeatstrail.com